Shukuu Izakaya
Rated one of the best sake bars
Shukuu Izakaya
Rated one of the best sake bars
What do you love about Japan? I too find it hard to pinpoint one, but of your many reasons, I’m sure culture, history, and cuisine rank highly! Shukuu’s mission is to be a cultural bridge between Japan and Singapore, that is why the theme of this blog is, “Tasting 1200 years of Japanese Sake.”
Named after a well-received, long running seminar we do in our Izakaya, I believe that Sake embodies the culture and history of the people. Centuries of brew masters, each putting their best efforts into making the best drink for you and I to enjoy. I want to highlight the different styles through the ages, some fast vanishing in the face of modernity.
The earliest reference to the use of alcohol of the Japanese people came from the 3rd Century Book of Wei, particularly the chapter of "Records of the Three Kingdoms.” It’s a Chinese text that only mentions drinking and dancing of the Japanese – so whether it was Sake as we know it, or another form of alcohol is historically debated.
Save for the former, the first mention of Sake in the Japan is in the Kojiki 古事記 by Ō no Yasumaro. It is significant because this mention comes from Japan's first written history; which was compiled in 712 AD.
And that is when Koji was first used in sake making, which I feel is the most similar technique to what we’re using in modernity.
Part of the pleasure of a glass of wine is knowing the region it was grown; or the styles used when it comes to Gin. For Sake, we have the former two, and we have a long history to add dimension to your enjoyment. So this Sake tasting Seminar is a must for you Japan buffs.
What is the best Sake? As I write these blogs, I hope to show you that the quality and preference of Sakes, like most alcohols, isn’t determined by price. Rather individual taste, and through the right introduction, one can discover a drink to change their life.
Let me bring your attention to a simplified illustration, depicting different periods and its influence on Sakes.
Fig 1: History and Sake
We endeavor to make every evening at Shukuu more than a tour. Everything is a tale. This is where we let our seminar participants, taste the styles representative of each Japanese period; and the influence it has on Sake. We started at the present, and walked our guests to the beginning.
Representing period: Present and future (2010 and beyond)
Tasting note: Fresh, lively, full bodied, fruity, and a similar acidity level as compared to white wine. The most novel characteristic is its hint of a sparkling effect! Imbued through a secret technique no persistence of mine has been able to coax from the brewer!
Sake Trend in Japan
Nama sake is the current and future trend in Japan. Brewers believe that Sakes SHOULD be drank when it is first pressed.
Origin of this sake
We chose this Sake because it comes from Nara prefecture, the birthplace of Sake. Its significance is further highlighted because it was the capital from 710 to 784.
A perfect sake to begin with. The name is explanatory of certain methods we will highlight in other Sake studies.
Pairing Note
Nama Sakes usually have a slightly higher acidity than its peers. Hence, we paired this Sake with Shukuu’s Beef Ponzu. The natural oiliness, combined with the acidity, enhances the savouriness of the meat.
Representing period: End of Showa Period to Heisei Period (1980 – 2010)
Tasting note: Smooth and sweet body, with a melon-like aroma.
Junmai or Non-Junmai (Honjozos)
Fig 2: Sake classification
A Junmai is a Sake brewed purely from rice. Yes, it boasts the most elegant varieties, and is arguably more traditional.
Honjozos are not a modern affliction. The method existed since the 1600’s; but was popularized due to the World War II rice shortages; as a means for the industry’s survival. This method involves the addition of a small amount of distilled alcohol to the Sake to improve flavor and shelf life. The result is a slightly drier and more aromatic brew.
A Daiginjo Story
If I asked you, “What is your favourite grade of Sake?” Most who’ve never had an introduction from me, would answer, “Daiginjo.” They could be correct, because it is seen as the pinnacle of Sake-making; but I can still surprise you (read my other article on misconceptions of Sake).
The advent of Daiginjos arrived with technology. In the 1930s, early in the Showa period, the appearance of a new vertical rice milling machine made it possible to polish Sake rice to greater degrees. This invention spurred brewers into a competition to create the finest Ginjo Sake!
Brand Introduction
Setsugoro is a premium brand under Kiku-sui of Niigata prefecture. This storied brewery that only produces 3,000 bottles per year, and only 300 can be exported overseas!
"Shuppin-shu" means Sake for the contest, and it was brewed for, “The All Japan National Sake Awards.”
Adding to the legends, Setsugoro has won gold medals at the contest for 7 consecutive years from 2008-2014. We find there are few better ways for you to get acquainted with Daiginjos than to try the best!
Pairing Note
This sake can be paired with raw fish or sushi. A Daiginjo is usually clean, crisp, and also fruity. It acts like a good wash that cleans up the soy sauce and allows you to taste the fish.
Representing period: Edo Period (1603-1867)
Tasting note: Rich and heavy bodied. Slight taste of sourness like yogurt, then accompanied by a fragrance of Japanese kelp. Most recommended to drink it warm at about 40-45 degree Celsius.
The Edo period is the Golden Age of Sake; and brewers almost reached their pinnacle here. Personally I’m a huge fan of Sake techniques from this era as taste is highly dependent on a brewer’s skill. Some techniques from this era include:
Hi-ire
A technique discovered in antiquity, it only became common during the Edo period. Hi-ire is essentially pasteurization by heat at a low temperature. This is to deactivate the enzymes in the Sake, making sure the sake remains the same after brewing. It also improves shelf life of Sakes.
A little boast is: the Japanese have been widely ‘pasteurizing’ their sake since 1600, while French scientist Luis Pasteur only discovered it in 1865.
Kimoto Style
A style discovered in the 1600s, and one of my personal favourites. It makes use of lactic acid bacteria naturally present in the brewing, and waits for the bacteria to propagate naturally. By doing so, other types of bacteria and wild yeast can be prevented from propagating themselves. This method takes twice as long, compared to the present day’s Shokuju method. The main focus of the Kimoto method is to concentrate on the best of flavours. The flavour must be mellow but rich; it must be perfectly blended, with no acidity or coarseness to bother the taste.
Sandan Jikomi
The name means the three steps brewing. Technically, this means three separate additions of steamed rice, water and rice koji. The main purpose of this method is to make the fermentation process ‘safe’ by controling the acidity of the moromi. It allows gradual alcohol fermentation.
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Representing period: Muromachi period and Kamakura period (1185-1493)
Tasting Notes: Aged Sakes are characteristically amber hued. Its nose has an exquisite resemblance of tropical fruits; with notes of dried apricot, peach and even mango. The flavour is a distinctive savouriness with a hint of saltiness.
History of Koshu
Long ago, even as far back as the 13th century, Sakes were often aged, with typical aging periods of three to five years. The people back then discovered that ageing Sake creates rich and mellow tastes.
Taxation of sake
Aged sake was considered precious, more expensive, and also exclusively for the upper class of Japan.
Because of its association with affluence, the government levied a 30% tax on Sake brewing, to finance the wars of the time with China and Russia. Taxes were typically collected after the brewing process was completed, and naturally no brewery would want to wait three to five years to get their money back. This is one of the reasons people stopped aging Sake, and this fine technique was nearly lost to the world.
The law was only rescinded about 50 years ago. Now brewers are taxed when the Sake is sold from the Kura. This has opened the door for renewed aging experimentation. Today, the word koshu means “aged sake,” and the full term is choki jukusei-shu.
Aging Sake is not a new concept, but very very few breweries make it. Possibly about one percent of the one percent. Why? I posit that aged Sake is a more acquired taste compared to premium Sakes you get today.
The nature of today’s premium ginjo Sake is light, aromatic, and fruity. On the other hand, aged Sakes are dark brown in colour, heavy, musty and very rich. They present a whole different dimension of taste, and appreciation.
It is, in short, a totally different beverage, and aged sake can be just as complex and deep as fresh ginjo, perhaps unrecognizable as sake, but it can be enjoyable.
Ways to age Sake
There is no one method for ageing Sake. The most traditional would be to age at lower temperatures and conditions so that colour and flavours are unaltered. This method induces a greater integration of various flavours and aroma. It will taste closest to what you expect of Sake.
Some brewers will age koshu in large tanks at room temperature, or in individual bottles at various temperatures including freezing. Yet others will employ a hybrid method: ageing in tanks for a few years before draining off, to leave sediments behind. And further ageing the Sakes in the bottles at colder temperatures!
The most likely type of koshu from the Muromachi Period I can source, for now, is the Tamagawa 1712; brewed using a recipe from 1712.
Pairing note
Koshu is naturally rich and also carries a smoky and caramel-like aroma. I suggest pairing it with dishes with a little bit of sweetness or sweet sauce. I also think, koshu pairs with chocolate perfectly. Which is why, for the seminar, we presented chocolate ice cream!
Representing period: Heian Period (794-1185)
Tasting note: Very rich taste, hints of miso, soy sauce or salted fish, accompanied with gentle sweetness.
Brewing Methods
One of the most overlooked facets about sake is its history. Around the mid-700 AD, when Nara was the capital of Japan, Sake was brewed by the monks in temples. Sounds like Trappist beer? In any case, most Sake making foundations are traced to this period.
About 700 years to the Kamakura Period and many different types of sake were being developed and in particular the Sake brewed by the Bodaisen monks gained a noticeably high reputation.
Bodaimoto is brewed a little different in that it used a small portion of steamed rice thrown in with raw rice and water and left to the elements to create a ferment called “soyashi-mizu”, basically a lactic-acid water. Lactic acid is essential in the early stages of brewing as lactic acid kills other unwanted bacteria which can “turn” the Sake. This lactic water was then used as the brewing water in the Sake production process. This actually puts the Bodai-moto method closer to the current sokujo-moto in style
It is quite confusing here and let me explain:
Of course advances in brewing left this Bodaimoto technique totally lost to the world until a few years back when some of the breweries in Nara decided to revive the technique.
Because you came here for a taste of Japanese culture, tradition would have it that the people of Miwa believed in a cycle of 3 elements. It comprises of Sake, god and Miwa. Miwa represents Mt. Miwa, Sake is god and god is Mt. Miwa.
Sake 6: Hanagaki Nigori Junmai
Representing period: Nara Period (710 – 794)
Tasting note: Filtration technique is not mature, thus these types of Sake contain rice residue, which brings out more of the fragrance of rice much more compared to clear Sakes.
History
Sake is usually filtered to remove grain solids left behind after the fermentation process; however, nigori Sake remains unfiltered, resulting in a far cloudier drink. Nigori Sakes are generally the sweetest of all , with a fruity nose and a mild flavor. They complement spicy foods, and are exquisite as a dessert wine.
A tip to derive great enjoyment; shake the bottle well before serving, you’ll want to let the sediments properly mix to obtain the full range of Nigori Sake flavor and their signature look. We and every Sake sommelier in the know advises serving it well-chilled, in an ice bucket, to savour a fine dining experience.
There’s always a place for anachronism in Japan. From dazzling lights and shopping havens; the hidden alleyways holding stories from a bygone era will captivate you as much.
Read it from me, or recall your memories of discoveries like these, and you’ll agree. That hidden gems rediscovered gives an immeasurable level of satisfaction. The same kind we, at Shukuu Izakaya get in rare Sakes from lesser known breweries.
Thus, I hope you enjoyed my sharing. This is just a wetting of the feet in the mighty river of Sake knowledge. If we’ve inspired you to try something rare, please drop by my Izakaya. Mario and I will be glad to guide you on a journey.
